![]() Not sure if you plan to run a winch but that's a whole other topic with dual batteries and the reason why I'm putting a second higher amp manual switching relay just for winching as the relays themselves are pretty harper7 and it works.I recommend their system as they make it easy and if you have the money.I just like reading and learning from all their FAQ's and tech write ups as they really are very knowledgeable and share. I agree the IBS is high priced but has all the fancy voltage gauges and wiring for a complete system. Cole Hersee Smart Battery Isolator 48530 200 amp I paid like a $100 for it on ebay at the time but they've gone up but still a way cheaper alternative then the IBS if your a DIYer. It has a emergency connect switch I wired in the truck so if my main dies I hit the button and it connects them to jump myself.I also just wired dual voltage gauges inside the truck so I can monitor each battery. Super easy to hook up and connects batteries two minutes after starting every time and disconnects after a couple of minutes when I shut it down. ![]() Just click on the literature PDF to tell you more about it. I've had the Cole Hersee Smart 48530 isolator, Battery-Related Products | Battery Isolators48530 | Cole Hersee - Littelfuse which has the isolator and relay together, for 2 1/2 years now and no problems,works every time. Our Denso 130 amp alternators for these trucks are really good. If that's true, you may imagine the profit margin of IBSįrom reading.When you have the relay closed and the batteries are joined when initial starting it is supposed to be hard on the charging and electronics systems and one of the reason why the IBS,Surepower,Cole Hersee and other systems usually have delays before they connect them together. Matson VSR Dual Battery Isolator - Matson Interstingly, the one above was once on sale for $25CAD, and the below one gets a $94AUD price tag Starting the car will not be affected because in the few seconds of starter cranking, the IG2 is cold, so the starting battery will have the full juice to feed the starter.Īnd yes, a VSR/Battery Isolator is a relay that connects when above 13.3V and disconnets when lower than 12.8V, like this: 12V Battery Isolator | Princess Auto This is the only situation that you may have your starting battery power sucked by the AUX battery. ![]() Actually the IG2 signal is good for almost 99% of the time, unless you keep ON position for a looong time AND your AUX battery just happened to be very drained. I basically agree every sentence you wrote. However, this can be easily mimic by activating the solenoid with an ignition wire such Titanpat57ĭid in his write up I rarely see our battery voltage drop below 13 volts when the engine is running so IMO, it's close enough I mean who really sits there with the key in the on position and the engine not running for a loooooong time right? It really is just a voltage sensitive controller that opens or closes the solenoid based on the voltage (along with a nifty way to monitor each battery voltage when they are isolated and a forced "link" feature). One thing I am not sure about is how long this signal persists.I forget if its only for when the remote start is in use, or if it's always active you'd need to manually test that out, sorry!įrom what I understand about the IBS, it basically only connects the two batteries when the ignition is on and it detected voltage is above ~13 volts or so and disconnects them when it drops. This should provide you a ground signal while the engine is spinning. That's great to hear you actually have an aftermarket remote start.if you do happen to want to go this route look up the model number of the remote start module, and then try to pull up the wiring diagrams to find the "GWR (ground when running)" output it's also sometimes called the "status" output. Hope that helps? I don't know anything that's hot when the engine is physically running only. If that works you can use this circuit (driver's footwell fusebox) and access it with a minitap if you want: The key has to be in the "run" position, or the "acc" position to be hot. I think you will be fine with an "ignition-on" signal. Sorry man- I've been slacking on the PM's as of late! Got to catch up. I know Voltage Sensitive Relay can make a such signal for you, I just wanna know if I can get a such signal in a very simple way. Don't get me wrong, I don't object to some dual battery systems like IBS, they are decent systems. No offence to the gentlemen I PMed for this question, I just couldn't wait for your reply. Can anyone tell where is the "hot" signal only when engine is running? ![]() I found the IG2 signal in "K Unit" in fuse box, but it's not the correct one. I'm thinking of setting up my dual battery system, and trying to find a Engine/Alternator running signal in fuse box(or wherever) to control a solenoid.
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